Everest 8,848m North Col Expedition
There are no easy routes on Everest but we try to put the odds on our side. We take the North Ridge because we consider it to be the safest. Technically, it is more challenging than the South Side but does not have the ice fall danger. Our Advanced Base Camp (6,400m) is right under the shadow of Changtse and has a view of virtually the whole route. From here we use four more camps, a formula that has brought us considerable success in the past.
On the North Ridge route we have had considerable success, largely thanks to our extremely experienced team of high altitude Sherpas. Such experience and local knowledge is invaluable in reading the mountain and her capricious moods, and as a result we give ourselves every chance of beating her defenses.
Your safety and success are our main concern. Over the years we have been able to hone every last detail of the preparation and back up logistics and it is at this stage, during the time spent at BC and ABC, that the main battle for the summit is won. Once on the mountain there is, of course, the same attention to detail.
Everybody says that one of the features of these expeditions is the fantastic team spirit and high morale created by the Sherpas who set up and manage BC and ABC.
Proper kitchen facilities, fresh vegetables and immaculate hygiene keep you healthy and fit, which is essential. There are also important extras like a shower, plus e-mail and faxes which not only provide satellite weather forecasting but contact with your family and business as well.
We have found in the past that lengthy acclimatization at the beginning of the expedition pays dividends later on, so we initially make a carry to 7,800m, and then return to base camp for a rest in preparation for the final summit push. We also allow plenty of time for any periods of bad weather or strong winds. The final retreat is fast but enables you to experience a different side to Tibet.
This is a once in a lifetime trip and one which requires the right preparation and a high degree of physical fitness. It is an outstanding challenge and whether or not you reach the summit you will be rewarded by the incredible intensity of the teamwork involved in attempting such a goal.
Route Description
We drive to BC at 5,200m and from there it is 22 km to ABC at 6,400m with yak support. We put an interim camp on the glacier about half way between BC and ABC, so this trip takes two days.
From ABC the route continues up the East Rongbuk glacier to the neve of the glacier and then up snow slopes to the North Col at 7,000m where Camp 1 is situated on snow. There is a long reasonably angled snow slope to 7,500m where we put Camp 2 on a snow ledge. The route from C2 to C3 is up a series of rock and shingle steps, again all very easy terrain to walk on.
Camp 3 will be at 7,900m on shingle platforms. From C3 the route traverses across a series of rock steps and then up medium angled snow slopes, then again on mixed rock and snow to Camp 4 at 8,300m. This camp is normally on rock, but some years there is snow cover here. There will be a fixed rope from the never to this point. Although you may not need this to assist with climbing, it provides a useful safety line for when you are tired and the wind is blowing. This route is traditionally very windy, especially between C2 and C3.
The summit day is from C4. The route is up mixed rock and snow steps to the NE ridge. These steps are quite steep in places and require considerable care especially as you now have all of your bulky clothing and oxygen equipment on.
The NE ridge is quite wide, with small steps and little height gain until the First Step. The First Step is a short rock buttress, which will have fixed ropes. Above here the climbing is more exposed but again without much height gain until the Second Step. The Second Step is across a series of small ledges which are sometimes snow covered, then around a large boulder and up the famous ladder. Again, all of this section will be fixed with rope. Above this step there is relatively gentle mixed ground until what is called the Third Step. Although not as serious as the previous steps, there is fixed rope to the col before the final summit snow slopes. These can be quite steep often with deep snow, so again we have fixed rope to the summit rock buttress from where there is a short section of corniced ridge to the summit.
Please see the Expedition booking notes for our normal conditions for joining an expedition. By e mail!
Intinerary :
Day 1. Arrive Kathmandu and transfer to hotel
Day 2-4 In Kathmandu for Tibet visa procedure and other formalities
Day 5. Drive Kathmandu/Zangmu (2350m.) O/N Hotel
Day 6. Drive to Nyalam(3750m)
Day 7. In Nyalam for acclimatization (explore around)
Day 8. Drive to Thingri (4350m) O/N Hotel
Day 9. In Thingri for acclimatization
Day 10. Drive to Everest BC (5200m)
Day 11-14 At the BC
Day 15. Trek to Interim Camp (6200m)
Day 16. Arrive at the Advance Base Camp (6400m)
Day 17-55 Climbing Period
Day 56. Advance Base Camp
Day 57. At the BC
Day 58. Cleanup BC
Day 59. Drive BC to Nyalam
Day 60. Drive Nyalam / Kathmandu
Day 61. In Kathmandu
Day 62. Departure
This is only an outline of the expedition movements, and if weather and conditions allow for all members to have a chance for the summit earlier, then the programme will be moved accordingly. Similarly if the summit attempts need to be made near the end of the expedition, then we can arrange for extra days.
Cost : Group Joining Basis
Per person USD 10,590 (Fixed departure joininig basis)
Climbing Sherpa (per sherpa) USD 3,500
Costs Include
- Peak permit fee of Everest.
- Hotel accommodation on a twin sharing basis full board in Tibet.
- All the transportation in Nepal and Tibet as per the program. 4 Yaks port per member from BC to ABC and 3 Yaks per member from ABC to BC.
- Tibet visa fee and required expedition formalities permit in Tibet.
- Nepalese Sherpa cook and two kitchen boy at BC and ABC. Equipment allowances, daily wages, insurance, food and lodging for BC and ABC staff (cook & Kitchen Boy). Dining tent, Kitchen tent, toilet tent, chair & table at BC & ABC. Base and ABC sleeping tents for member and all staffs.
- Base Camp - Advance Base Camp 1 tent for 1 person
- Food and fuel at BC and ABC during the expedition period.
- Equipment allowances, daily allowances, insurance, food and lodging for Liaison Officer & interpreter. High way and conservation charges
Costs do not include
- 1. Air travel to and from Kathmandu. Accommodation, Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu. Drinks, laundry, postage, telephon calls, and all other items of personal nature.
- Entry visa into Nepal. This can be obtained at the airport upon arrival. Re-entry visa for Nepal.
- Departure tax at Kathmandu airport. Personal travel, medical and rescue insurance.
- Climbing equipment?s, high altitude tents, food & fuel above ABC.
- Climbing Sherpa and his climbing bonus.
- Emergency evacuation and Walkie-Talkie
Extra servic if required
Climbing Sherpa ? USD 3800 per Sherpa.
Russian oxygen 4 litters US$ 400.00
Mask & Regular US$ 400.00
Film Permit US$ 6000.00 (Small Portable movie camera is free)
Duty Jeep US$ 3000.00 |
